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Practical guide

How do you reinforce handles and thick denim seams?

Place the handles evenly from the side edges, baste them in place and reinforce every end with box-and-cross stitching and a second row of topstitching.

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Two sturdy denim handles attached to a tote bag with box-and-cross stitching
Place the handles evenly from the side edges and reinforce every end where the bag carries weight.

Handles carry the full weight of a bag. In the VLU denim tote-bag pattern two strips measuring 10 × 65 cm are folded, stitched and placed with their ends 10 cm from each side edge. Measure both sides from the same reference point so the bag hangs straight.

Build strength in layers

  1. Fold the raw long edges of each strip inward and stitch along both long sides.
  2. Baste the ends to the right side of the outer bag first and check that nothing is twisted.
  3. Sew the upper bag edge, then add box-and-cross stitching at every handle end.
  4. Sew one or two rows of topstitching around the top to stabilise the lining and handles together.
Close view of a denim handle, heavy topstitching and the upper edge of a lined tote bag
Sew slowly over the thick junction and use the handwheel when the presser foot begins to tilt.

Cross a thick seam without a jump

When the presser foot climbs a thick junction, stitches may become tiny or pile up in one place. Stop with the needle down, raise the foot and place a folded offcut behind it to keep it level. Turn the handwheel over the highest section and continue slowly.

Strength check

  • Both handles are the same length and are not twisted.
  • Every end sits 10 cm from the nearest side edge.
  • The stitching catches the full width of the folded strip.
  • Loose thread ends are secured and the upper edge lies flat.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a special tool for thick seams?

No. A small folded denim offcut can temporarily keep the presser foot level. A hump-jumper tool is convenient, but not essential.

Can an old pair of jeans provide the handles?

Yes, provided the chosen section is strong, evenly thick and free of worn patches. Test the length and remove hard metal parts before sewing.

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