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Practical guide

How do you cut and sew a neat tote-bag lining?

Cut the lining to the same main measurements as the outer bag, attach the inner pocket first and leave a turning opening in the lower seam.

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The open top of a denim tote bag with floral cotton lining and an inner pocket
A lining that is cut accurately and pressed smooth sits neatly inside the denim outer bag.

The complete denim tote-bag project uses two cotton lining panels measuring 41 × 43 cm, the same as the main denim panels. Prewash and press the cotton so it does not shrink later and make the outer bag pucker.

Cut both panels in the same direction

Fold the cotton neatly and make sure a directional print faces the same way on both panels. Mark the upper edge lightly on the wrong side. When the denim is stretchy or soft, stabilise the outer bag with interfacing rather than making the cotton lining unnecessarily stiff.

Close view of the floral lining and rectangular inner pocket inside a denim tote bag
Sew the inner pocket to one lining panel before joining the two lining panels.

Attach the inner pocket before closing the lining

  1. Fold and stitch the upper edge of the 20 × 22 cm inner pocket first.
  2. Centre it on one lining panel, at least a hand-width below the top edge.
  3. Sew the sides and lower edge, reinforcing both upper corners.
  4. Then sew the lining sides and bottom with a 1.5 cm seam allowance, leaving about 15 cm open for turning.

Before inserting the lining

  • Side and lower seams have been pressed.
  • The turning opening is large enough for the denim layers.
  • The inner pocket is upright and firmly attached.
  • The lining and outer-bag side seams match.

Frequently asked questions

Why does the lining pull above the bag?

It may be too large, stretched during sewing or not pushed smoothly inside. Press the upper edge and sew the topstitching evenly.

Must the lining be exactly the same size?

For this straight bag, matching panel measurements work well. A small seam-allowance difference can still make the lining too loose or too tight.

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